A Pilgrims' day in Santiago

On Thursday morning we headed first to Obradoiro Plaza in front of the Cathedral and where arriving pilgrims gather.

Shells, gourds, & walking sticks are on sale in the plaza.

The Cathedral has been going through a major restoration -- the Baroque western facade is mostly covered by scaffolding. It's still a wonder to behold but perhaps disappointing for walkers who haven't seen the Cathedral before now.

There are two commemorative plaques in the center of Obradoiro Plaza. One plaque designates the Camino as the first European Cultural Itinerary awarded in 1987 by the Council of Europe -- this award honors the Camino's importance as a cultural exchange since the Middle Ages. The other commemorates the Holy Year in 2004. Walkers gather here at the plaques and have their pictures taken lying down on them or standing near as we did.

After the noon Pilgrim's Mass we headed for the Pilgrims' Office to get our Compostelas.

Dad standing in line awaiting our turn -- only about 20 minutes -- earlier in the morning the lines were out the courtyard door into the street.

A volunteer from the U.S. completed our Compostelas. The certificate, written in Latin, was in color -- a change from the tan version we received in 2011. Also, this time the office had moved from a quainter part of the building complex to a bigger area that accommodated more pilgrims. 

The process is also now more high tech with automated numbers & a form to fill out rather than the verbal questions that were previously asked. Nevertheless, receiving the Compostela was an exciting but bittersweet moment. The 'official' end of the Camino can bring up many emotions for walkers after they've finished their journeys.

There's plans to move the office from this location to a bigger space -- prompted no doubt by the higher volume of walkers these days.

Mom & daughter from Germany we met several times along the Road -- there were tears shared as they remembered the husband & Dad who passed away last year and had been to Santiago with his wife 6 times. Their Camino paid tribute to him.

The Romanesque interior of the cathedral is as lovely as ever, however, the western entrance, including Portico da Gloria, is currently closed off for restoration. 

The swinging of the Botafumiero, or giant censer, is always a spectacular experience to see. Originating in ancient religious rituals, the use of incense was considered an act of prayer during the Middle Ages and served a practical purpose as well...fumigating smelly pilgrims. 

The tirobolieros (the red-robed men on the right) hoist the ropes to swing the Botafumiero from a giant pulley in the vault above the altar. The men are hired specifically for this job, which is probably why it's costly to have the Botafumiero swung. It's only done on designated days or when groups pay for it to happen.

The rope pulley that swings the Botafumiero from the cimborio, or dome above the crossing

Cameras, lights, action -- 

a photo frenzy amidst the incense smoke!

St. James, flanked by disciples Athanasius & Theodore, presides over the Holy Door (Puerta Santa) on the Cathedral's east side. The Holy Door is only opened during Holy Years or Jubilee years when the Feast of St. James (July 25th) falls on a Sunday. The next Holy Year is 2021. 

Mazarelos Arch is the only surviving wall archway from the Middle Ages.

     

A spice and herb vendor was at an art & craft fair near San Martin Pinario where we will stay 3 nights.

Dad with brother and sister pilgrims from Ecuador -- Esteban was going back to Germany where he works as an architect, and Maria is studying medicine in Rome but will walk to Finisterre before flying back to Italy.

We ended a full pilgrims' day at Casa Manolo, a restaurant catering to walkers and university students -- also a Rick Steves' recommendation. Mucho bueno!