Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Santa Cilia de Jaca & Arres

The walk Tuesday from Jaca to Santa Cilia de Jaca passed through farmlands and golden fields. The sun came out early, but the temperature remained comfortable. Although there were other pilgrims staying at our albergue last night, we didn't meet any while walking during the day. Thus far, Camino Aragones has been a quiet & serene route with quaint towns and friendly hospitality.

One part of the trail cut through a Spanish army camp with pup tents scattered. It may have been part of a military training exercise. Dad told the crew at the cooking tent that he was a "hungry peregrino," and they gave us plates of fried chicken. 


Our only bar break was at Hotel Aragon with a nice outdoor patio. While we sat and sipped refreshments, the sound of thunder rumbled in the distance. This wasn't a surprise as thunder and rain had occurred both nights in Jaca.

Hoping to beat the rain, we quickly left the hotel and started on the final few miles to Santa Cilia de Jaca. Just as we entered the town limits, hail came down, and we ducked under an awning until it stopped about five minutes later. 

St. James directed us to the albergue.



A balcony in the albergue room was perfect for drying shoes after the sun came out in late afternoon.


Pastoral view out the window

Dad put the Euro equivalent of a penny on the albergue wall already covered with coins. There was also a photo of a peregrino in medieval pilgrim garb. 

Santa Cilia's bell tower from the 17th c.

The albergue hospitalero, or manager (at the end of the table), cooked a communal meal. Other walkers at dinner were from Italy and Switzerland. Swiss pilgrims Susanna and Michael (on the right across from Dad) had been at the albergue in Jaca last night too. They've walked many Camino routes, including Camino Frances, Via de la Plata, and Camino del Norte. Michael has studied theology, philosophy, and mathematics. During his studies, he spent two years at the mountain top pilgrimage site of Montserrat near Barcelona. He paints and draws caricatures as a hobby. Susanna had been a legal stenographer and now studies many environmental issues related to food production and health. They both speak many languages, including English.


At breakfast Wednesday Dad showed Susanna and Michael pictures on the iPad. We joined them today in the walk to Arres.

There's been some cherry trees along the Road the past couple days. We all picked a few to enjoy.

Susanna pointed out different flowers that lined the path. Some were edible or could be made into teas.

In one stretch of the trail there were mounds of piedras, or stones, most likely stacked by walkers. 

Last night's rain refreshed all the flowers and greenery. The temperature was perfect for walking.


A bench provided one last rest stop as we approached Arres, a charming hill side hamlet with a current population of 40. The village had been abandoned, but in 1998 the government sold the crumbling stone structures for one peseta each to anyone who wanted to restore them. 

Our albergue was rebuilt in 2002-2003 by volunteers and is now run through the Federation of Associations of the Road. The building includes a round Aragonese chimney.

The view from Arres


In the albergue common room 

Dinner with pilgrims from Spain, Switzerland, and Japan. Afterwards everyone shared why they are walking the Camino. Susanna translated for Dad and me.

Later, albergue host Tazio gave a tour of Arres' church, Santa Aguenda, which had been rebuilt in the 16th c. and featured iconography from the 13th & 14th c.







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